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Like most Alaskans, I scramble to get everything done before the snow falls — chopping wood, harvesting potatoes, putting away garden tools.

This year, there was a new activity added to my list: planting garlic. Last year, a local commercial garlic grower shared some of his crop. I became hooked on trying to grow my own. So early last week with the threat of snow, I planted my garlic in the cold, half-frozen dirt.

Garlic is easy to grow, but you need to keep in mind a few things to succeed in Alaska. Grow only hardneck varieties, plant in early fall and mulch for winter protection.

More than 600 varieties of garlic are grown throughout the world. They are divided into hardneck and softneck varieties. Because of Alaska’s long days and cold temperatures, only the hardnecks will produce bulbs here.

Softnecks, which were developed from hardnecks, are grown in warm climates. Hardnecks tend to have larger, fewer cloves and produce a distinct coiled flower stalk, called a scape.

Garlic is grown by planting cloves, not seeds. Most garlic at the grocery store is the softneck variety, and some are treated to reduce sprouting.

Purchase garlic from mail-order catalogs. The bulbs will arrive in late summer or early fall and need to be planted before the ground freezes hard. The earlier you can plant it in September, the better so its roots can develop.

Separate the bulb into individual cloves, or toes, one to 24 hours before planting. Plant only the largest cloves and eat the small ones.

The soil is one of the most important aspects, as garlic needs more fertilizer than most crops. Before planting, amend the soil with compost, manure, slow-release organic fertilizer and a light dusting of lime.

Garlic grows best in sweet soils with a pH between 6.5 and 7.5. Plant the cloves every 6 inches, point side up, and deep enough to cover with 2 inches of soil.

It is essential to mulch with 6-12 inches of aged straw, leaves, grass clippings or shredded paper. I like to put the bag on my mulch mower and collect a combination of fall leaves and grass clippings. The chopped mixture insulates well and breaks down quickly the next year, adding organic matter to the soil. The mulch also will reduce weeds and watering the next year. Garlic has a shallow root system and the mulch will help keep the root environment consistent.

Garlic likes to be kept evenly watered throughout the growing season to ensure that the bulb has a good shape. While the mulch will help, it is a good idea to water once a week. A compost tea or soluble fertilizer solution can be added to boost bulb size.

In June, the plants may begin to produce scapes. Remove scapes when they begin to curl so the plant puts its energy into producing bulbs. Tender scapes are good to eat sautéed in olive oil or added to a stir-fry. Harvesting begins a month after scapes are harvested.

The tops, or leaves, will begin to turn brown in late July to early August. Stop watering for two weeks to allow the bulbs to mature before harvest. Bulbs will not store long if watered too close to harvest. Consider covering the plants with a plastic tunnel if it is constantly raining.

Begin harvesting when the plants have three to four brown leaves. Start with the most brown plant as a test. The garlic should look completely developed and full. Do not pull the plants, but gently dig to avoid damaging the garlic skin.

Handle the garlic like eggs, as it is fragile and will easily bruise. Gently brush off the dirt and trim roots to one-quarter inch. Cure for two weeks by hanging in bundles of six to 10 in a well-ventilated location away from the sun.

If you have been successful, your relationship with garlic is now expanded. Enjoy!

Michele Hébert is the Tanana District agriculture and horticulture agent for the Cooperative Extension Service, a part of the University of Alaska Fairbanks, working in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture.